Life has not been easy for Guatemalans. Surviving a 36 year civil war, they are now mired in a cycle of corruption, crime and extreme poverty.
And yet, they are some of the kindest, gentlest, most considerate people we have ever lived among. They are always quick with a smile, speaking slow and patient Spanish for our halting attempts at communication.
One of my cherished experiences - I was walking alone through Antigua and passed an old man who was obviously down on his luck - unkempt, unshaven. I decided to be Guatemala-friendly and chirped "buenos dias" even though it was the middle of the afternoon (requiring a buenos tardes). He smiled and said "buenos tardes" back to me and I stopped and acknowledged my mistake, saying "buenos tardes." With this he launched into a long speech (in Spanish) on when you use "buenos dias", when "buenos tardes" and when "buenos noches." I stood dutifully listening, even though I was well aware of my mistake. When I finally said I understood and turned to go, he put his hand on my arm and gently said "poco a poco." (Little by little!) What a kind gesture from a perfect stranger.